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Yasai no Shiraae (Vegetables in White Dressing)

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Shiraae is one of Japan’s most popular tofu side dishes. Shira means “white” and ae means “dressed” or “mixed”. Taken together, shiraae is vegetables dressed with a white dressing made with of tofu and white sesame. It is not unlike a Japanese hummus (beans + tahini). Shiraae is a classic aemono, or “dressed salads.” Since there is no oil used in this dressing, it is a great option if you are looking for a low-fat, high-protein salad.

Types of tofu for shiraae

Both firm momen and silken kinugoshi tofu can be used to make shiraae, but with distinct results. Firm tofu will produce a dressing that is crumbly, while silken tofu will produce a dressing that is more saucy. Depending on the vegetables you are using, you can choose accordingly. Soft vegetables like spinach go better with a firm shiraae, while hard vegetables like carrots and konnyaku go better with a saucy silken shiraae.

If you prefer to go soy-free, replace the tofu with equal amount of soaked cashews. The dressing will still be white, hence still respecting its name shiraae.

Seasoning the tofu dressing

The most basic shiraae is crumbled tofu and a pinch of salt. Popular additions are crushed white sesame seeds or tahini, usukuchi soy sauce (to preserve the colour), miso and sugar. Since I prefer to eat sugar-free, I use more shiro miso, which has a natural sweetness, and skip the sugar. For a more complex, avant garde version with the benefits of fermented foods, you can add shio koji or used koji or miso cured tofu instead of plain tofu as the base.

Type of vegetables for shiraae

Use seasonal vegetables for shiraae. Most common are asparagus, carrots, spinach, konnyaku, mushrooms and broccoli. The vegetables are braised shortly in a soy-tinged dashi for extra flavour before mixing into the tofu dressing.

How to best enjoy shiraae

The assembled salad is best chilled for 4-6 hours before serving to allow the flavours to meld. You can enjoy as a side dish for go further by using the salad to fill pouches, sandwiches or wraps. 

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Yasai no Shiraae (Vegetables in White Dressing)

Shiraae, or “white dressing,” is one of Japan’s most popular tofu side dishes, and a classic aemono, or “dressed salads.” It comprises of two components - seasoned mashed tofu and soy-braised vegetables. It is best chilled for 4-6 hours before serving. You can go further by using the salad to fill pouches, sandwiches or wraps. 

Course Side Dish
Cuisine Japanese
Prep Time 2 hours
Cook Time 10 minutes
Author Sabrina Chu

Ingredients

Tofu Dressing

  • 150 g (1/2 block) tofu (firm momen or silken kinugoshi)
  • 15 g (1 1/2 tbsp) freshly roasted sesame seeds or tahini
  • 12 g (2 tsp) saiyako or shiro miso
  • 4 g (1 tsp) tamari or usukuchi soy sauce
  • 10 g 2 tsp shio koji (optional, if using halve the amount of tamari)
  • vegan dashi (optional, as needed)

Vegetables

  • 90 g (3 oz) green beans
  • 70 g (2 1/2 oz) carrot, peeled and julienned
  • 2 no dried shiitake, rehydrated and thinly sliced
  • 120 g (1/2 cup) vegan dashi
  • 1/2 tbsp tamari or usukuchi soy sauce
  • 1/2 tbsp sake or mirin

Instructions

Tofu Dressing

  1. Fill a saucepan with water and bring to a rolling boil. Add the tofu and blanch for 2 minutes. With a slotted spoon, remove the tofu to a colander lined with a cheesecloth or nut milk bag. When cool enough to handle, squeeze out the excess moisture from the tofu. It is fine to mash the tofu while doing this.

  2. Put the drained tofu in a bowl, along with the remaining ingredients. Use your fingers and crumble the tofu, mixing it with the other ingredients at the same time. Set aside until assembly of the salad.

Vegetables

  1. In a saucepan, add dashi, and bring to a bare simmer. Add green beans, carrot, shiitake and cook for 3-4 minutes, or until the liquid is reduced by half. Season with tamari and sake or mirin and continue to cook for 1-2 minutes, or until the liquid is almost gone and the vegetables have a glazed appearance.

  2. Remove the saucepan from heat and let the vegetables cool to room temperature. When cool, fold the vegetables into the Shiraae dressing.

  3. Like curries, Shiraae salad tastes better when the flavours are allowed to meld for 4 hours or overnight.

Recipe Notes

Types of tofu. Firm momen tofu will make a crumbly dressing, while silken kinugoshi tofu will make a saucy dressing. To improve digestibility or a more complex flavour, you can also use cured tofu such as tofu kojizuke or misozuke.
Seasoning the tofu dressing. Crushed sesame seeds, soy sauce, miso and sugar are common seasonings. Usukuchi soy sauce will help preserve the white colour of the dressing. For gluten-free version, use tamari instead of soy sauce, but tamari will stain the dressing light brown.
Types of vegetables. Spinach (blanched) and konnyaku (dry-roasted) are other common vegetables used in shiraae salad.
Types of aemono. Shiraae (tofu), gomaae (sesame), misoae (miso), karashiae (mustard).
Soy-free option. Replace tofu with equal amounts of soaked cashews (about 105 g dry cashews).

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Jimamidofu (Tofu of Peanuts)

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Jimamidofu is an Okinawan speciality, a peanut tofu made from freshly squeezed peanut milk and thickened with one of several types of starches – kudzu starch, rice flour, sweet potato starch or tapioca starch. Jimami means peanuts in Okinawan dialect. It is quite similar to Kyoto’s sesame-based gomadofu, but with two differences. First, jimamidofu is softer and more stretchy in consistency – think mozzarella – which can be attributed to the properties of sweet potato starch. Second, jimamidofu is considered more of a dessert than savoury dish. It is typically served with a sweetened soy sauce or brown sugar syrup and ginger, compared to plain soy sauce with gomadofu. Jimamidofu is cooked in water instead or dashi, hence does not have a savoury undertone like gomadofu.

I got to know this tofu variant through the award-winning eponymous film set in Singapore/Okinawa. It traces the love story of a Singaporean chef, Ryan, and his old flame and food critic, Yuki, in a food-based narrative featuring Singaporean and Okinawan cuisine. Foodie films always make me hungry to try the featured foods, and this is no different, especially since it is a locally produced film!

In this jimamidofu recipe, I followed the guidelines set out in my previous post for gomadofu. I used about 16% peanut butter, 5.5% kudzu starch and 2.8% sweet potato starch (8.3% total starch vs 10% in gomadofu) relative to the amount of water. Roasted peanut butter is not commonly used in jimamidofu but I only had peanut butter on hand and I don’t think it affected the taste of the jimamidofu. With this, why not try out a 5D dining experience with the film Jimami Tofu?

Looking for more Peanut recipes? Check out my:

Berbere Dovi (Pan-African Spicy Vegetable Peanut Stew)
Peanut Butter Oatmeal Cookies (No-Bake, Vegan) (replace walnuts with peanut butter)

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Jimamidofu (Tofu of Peanuts)

An Okinawan specialty tofu of peanuts, thickened with kudzu and sweet potato starch. Serve with brown sugar syrup for a creme caramel-like dessert!

Prep Time 20 minutes
Cook Time 20 minutes
Servings 10 servings
Author Sabrina Chu

Ingredients

Jimamidofu

  • 28 g (2 3/4 tbsp) kudzu starch
  • 14 g (1 1/2 tbsp) sweet potato starch (substitute tapioca starch or potato starch)
  • 500 g (2 cups) filtered water
  • 84 g (1/2+ cup) raw shelled peanuts, soaked overnight (substitute peanut butter at a pinch)

Sauce and Garnish

  • 60 g (1/4 cup) vegan dashi
  • 1 tbsp tamari
  • 1 tbsp mirin
  • 3-inch ginger, grated

Instructions

Jimamidofu

  1. In a mixing bowl, dissolve the kudzu and sweet potato starch with a little water to form a slurry. Use the back of a spoon to break up any lumps.

  2. In a blender, blend the soaked peanuts with the remaining water on high speed until smooth. Strain the mixture through a nut milk bag into a heavy-bottom saucepan.

  3. To the mixture in the saucepan, add the starch slurry. Cook the mixture over medium heat, stirring all the time. After 2 to 3 minutes you will feel the mixture beginning to thicken. At the point reduce the heat to low and cook for another 10-15 minutes, stirring all the time. By the end of the cooking, the mixture should develop a strong elasticity.

  4. Wet a square or rectangular mold with water (this is to keep it from sticking). Pour the mixture into the mold and working quickly as it sets fast, smooth the surface with a spatula. Put 2 to 3 tablespoons of cold water over the surface of the mixture to prevent it from drying out.

  5. Place the mold in the refrigerator to set for at least 3 hours or for as long as over night.

  6. When solidified, unmold and slice jimamidofu into squares. Keep in water until ready to serve.

Sauce and Garnish

  1. In a small saucepan, combine the dashi, tamari, and mirin, and bring the mixture to a boil. Remove from heat, and let the sauce cool to room temperature. Store sauce in the refrigerator until serving.

  2. To serve, place a square of jimamidofu in a small bowl. Spoon a little sauce over the gomadofu and garnish with a grated ginger.

Recipe Notes

Raw version:
Blend 1/2 cup peanuts (soaked overnight) with 1/2 cup filtered water and 1/3 cup prepared Irish moss paste. Pour into a shallow pan and allow to set overnight before slicing.

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Gomadofu (Tofu of Sesame Seeds)

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Gomadofu is one of the classic dishes served at the beginning of the meal in shojin ryori and kaiseki ryori. Made from sesame seeds thickened with kudzu starch, gomadofu has a delicate, custard texture and melts in the mouth to release a subtle savoury sesame flavour. Compared to regular soy tofu in which soy proteins are coagulated with gypsum or nigari, gomadofu is less brittle and more gelatinous.

Three main factors that affect the outcome of gomadofu are kudzu starch, sesame seeds and the liquid. Kudzu starch will determine the density of the gomadofu. It can vary from 7.5% to 12.5% of the amount of liquid. The amount and quality of sesame seeds will determine the flavour of the gomadofu. The strength can vary from 10% to 25% of the amount of liquid. Freshly roasted sesame seeds grounded in a suribachi will give the best nutty flavour, but nerigoma or tahini and be used at a pinch. I used black sesame this time which gave a stunning colour. The liquid medium for gomadofu can be water, but for a richer, more flavourful result, dashi and sake is recommended. You can decide the characteristics of your gomadofu by adjusting the percentages of these ingredients.

When making gomadofu, keep stirring continuously to ensure even thickening and prevent scorching of the pan. Wet your mold with water for easy removal of the tofu after setting, and pour a thin layer of water over the fresh tofu to prevent drying out. Gomadofu is enjoyed with soy sauce (or tamari) and a dab of wasabi to complement the nutty sesame flavours. Simple and delicious.

Below is a video of the gomadofu I had at Shigetsu, Kyoto. You can see the custard consistency of gomadofu. Itadakimasu!

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Gomadofu (Tofu of Sesame Seeds)

Tofu of sesame seeds, thickened with kudzu starch. Decide on the characteristics of your gomadofu by adjusting the quantity and quality of the three main ingredients - kudzu starch, sesame seeds and liquid medium.

Servings 10 servings
Author Sabrina Chu

Ingredients

Gomadofu

  • 50 g (5 tbsp) kudzu starch
  • 500 g (2 cups) vegan dashi (see Notes)
  • 80 g (1/2 cup) freshly roasted white or black sesame seeds, or tahini
  • 1/4 tsp Himalayan salt
  • 1 1/2 tbsp sake (optional)

Sauce and Garnish

  • 60 g (1/4 cup) vegan dashi (see Notes)
  • 1 tbsp tamari
  • 1 tbsp mirin
  • 1 bunch green onion, finely sliced
  • 2 tsp wasabi powder
  • 1 tsp warm water

Instructions

Gomadofu

  1. In a mixing bowl, dissolve the kudzu starch with a little dashi to form a slurry. Use the back of a spoon to break up any lumps.

  2. In a blender, blend sesame seeds or tahini and kudzu slurry with the remaining dashi. Strain the mixture through a cheesecloth or nut milk bag into a heavy-bottom saucepan.

  3. To the mixture in the saucepan, add salt and sake, if using. Cook the mixture over medium heat, stirring all the time. After 2 to 3 minutes you will feel the mixture beginning to thicken. At the point reduce the heat to low and cook for another 10-15 minutes, stirring all the time. By the end of the cooking, the mixture should develop a strong elasticity.

  4. Wet a square or rectangular mold with water (this is to keep it from sticking). Pour the mixture into the mold and working quickly as it sets fast, smooth the surface with a spatula. Put 2 to 3 tablespoons of cold water over the surface of the mixture to prevent it from drying out.

  5. Place the mold in the refrigerator to set for at least 3 hours or for as long as over night.

  6. When solidified, unmold and slice gomadofu into squares. Keep in water until ready to serve.

Sauce and Garnish

  1. In a small saucepan, combine the dashi, tamari, and mirin, and bring the mixture to a boil. Remove from heat, and let the sauce cool to room temperature. Store sauce in the refrigerator until serving.

  2. Just before serving, prepare wasabi paste by mixing wasabi powder with warm water to form a paste. Set aside for 5 minutes to allow the full flavour to develop.

  3. To serve, place a square of gomadofu in a small bowl. Spoon a little sauce over the gomadofu and garnish with a dab of wasabi paste.

Recipe Notes

Vegan Dashi 
To prepare vegan dashi, soak 1 piece (16 square-inches) kombu and 1 dried shiitake mushroom in 4 cups water in a saucepan for 2 hours or longer. Bring to a low simmer, below boiling, then turn off the heat and steep until the dashi cools to room temperature. Remove the kombu and shiitake mushroom. This is the first (ichiban) dashi. They can be reused one or time to make second (niban) dashi, but the dashi strength will be weaker.
Raw Version
Blend 80 g (1/2 cup) sesame seeds or tahini with 120 g (1/2 cup) dashi and 1/3 cup prepared Irish moss paste. Pour into a shallow pan and allow to set overnight before slicing.

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Snapshots from Kyoto 1: Arashiyama, Shigetsu and Shojin Ryori

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Tequila sunrise over the Oi river, Arashiyama

Sunrise over the Oi river, Arashiyama

Arashiyama is an idyllic town in western Kyoto famed for the views of the Oi river and home to two UNESCO heritage sites – the bamboo forest and Tenryuji Temple. I arrived here at dawn, just in time to see the first light find its way through the heavy clouds to cast a golden hue over the still river. I was advised to visit Arashiyama early, before hoards of tourists descend on the place.

Arashiyama bamboo forest – recommended to visit in the morning

The bamboo forest was impressive, especially when you are one of the few early birds to meander through a grove of 20 metres-tall towering bamboo stalks. The hollow trunks sway in the mild wind, turning sunlight into a delicate jade green. A wonderful place to just soak in and appreciate the magnificence of nature.

Approaching spring in Tenryuji temple grounds

On a second visit two weeks later, I returned with a friend to experience shojin ryori at Shigetsu, located in Tenryuji temple in Arashiyama. Shojin ryori is a Japanese vegetarian cuisine that originated from Buddhist temples and was popularised in the 13th Century. The two characters that form the word shojin means ‘spirit’ and ‘progress,’ and ryori means ‘cuisine.’ Preparing Shojin cuisine is an aspect of a monk’s zen training, involving self-discipline, humility, and focus, much like meditation. The idea is that by preparing and consuming simple, seasonal, unadulterated foods free of killing, a Buddhist monk can better progress along the path to enlightenment. The frugal dishes help monks break their bonds with flashy pleasures of the material world.

Ready to experience shojin ryori at Shigetsu, Tenryuji

Shigetsu is one of the most well-known places to experience shojin ryori, partly due to its prime location. My friend and I made lunch reservations for the Snow course (¥3,300) at Shigetsu through their website two days prior. Upon arrival, we checked our reservations and were led by the hostess through a narrow corridor typical of a Japanese machiya to one of the rooms. Tatami mats lined the floor, upon which sat low wooden tables awaiting guests. The walls were bare, save for cream paper and wood screen along the room’s back that when opened revealed a small balcony overlooking the gardens of Tenryuji. The Japanese love to take advantage of what’s called a “borrowed view.” And for good reason: if Mother Nature can be your artist, why pay for Picasso?

Posture matters

We pretzelled our legs into a lotus position before a wooden table, as more guests entered and filled the room. Tourists from all over the world, judging by their looks and accents – India, Europe, China – exchanged excited glances in unspoken understanding. For many of us, it is our first time experiencing shojin ryori.

Trays were brought out promptly and each was laid on the wooden table in a buisness-like fashion. The Snow (cheapest) menu had rice, soup, five side dishes, pickles, dessert and tea, all laid out neatly in red lacquer bowls. I started with the soy miso soup, which contained tiny pinwheels of hydrated yuba that unfurled in the warm broth like miniature white roses. It looked pale and placid, but the umami flavour explodes in the mouth to whet the appetite. In lieu of meat, there was rehydrated wheat gluten (fu) that sat in an assuming clear broth. On top of it perched a roll of yuba, shiitake and a snap pea. As I chewed on the spongy wheat cake, the delicious sweet-salty broth burst out, interwoven with the sweet aroma of soy. It was one of the best dishes on the tray. The Zen temple staple sesame tofu (gomadofu) was satin smooth, treacherously wobbly, and as unctuous as a triple creme custard. The spot of wasabi and drizzle of soy sauce was just enough to compliment the nutty flavour of sesame. I also thoroughly enjoyed the kansai-style sakura mochi, which came with an unexpected savoury ankake sauce (I though mochi could only be sweet!) Additionally there were pickles, a konnyaku dish, broccoli with mustard sauce, but these three dishes were less spectacular.


As I went through the courses, I tried to observe the five principles of shojin ryori in practice – five colours (go shiki), five methods of cooking (go ho), five tastes (go mi), five senses (go kan) and five reflections (go kan mon). Five colours of food (red, yellow, green, white, black/purple) promote a natural balance of macro and micronutrients with a wide variety of foods. Five methods of cooking (raw, steamed, grilled, boiled, fried) help to limit excess seasonings, sodium and sugar, as well as give a variety of textures to savour. Five tastes (sweet, sour, salty, bitter, spicy) give a harmonious balance of flavours and ensures that our palates are pleasantly stimulated. Five senses reminds us not only to be mindful of taste, but also sight, sound, smell and touch/texture of food as we cook and enjoy food. To cross-reference from Ayurveda, diseases can arise when we overuse or misuse one or more of our senses. Five reflections are recited before partaking of the meal and encourage us to be mindful of our nourishment.

  1. I reflect on the work that bring this food before me; let me see whence this food comes.
    (Respect the efforts of all those who contributed their toil to cultivating and preparing our food.)
  2. I reflect on my imperfections, on whether I am deserving of this offering of food.
    (To do good deeds worthy of receiving such nourishment.)
  3. Let me hold my mind free from greed.
    (To come to the table without passion.)
  4. I take this food as an effective medicine to keep my body in good health.
    (To eat for temporal well-being.)
  5. I accept this food so that I will fulfill my task of enlightenment.
    (To eat to attain and accomplish your spiritual purpose.)

Despite all that the temple had served us, we did not feel uncomfortably full. This made sense, since balance and harmony are essential to all shojin ryori meals. We walked out of the temple with nourished bellies and a peaceful mind, ready to continue our sightseeing plans, just like how good food should make you feel – a renewed sense of calm energy.

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Sea Harvest Furikake (Raw, Vegan)

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Furikake is a Japanese seaweed sprinkle that brings a mineral-rich, savoury sparkle to dishes. Iodine-rich from multiple sea vegetables, this blend can help support thyroid health. The basic ingredients are nori, sesame seeds, salt, and sugar. Typically, bonito flakes or shaved dried fish are used. In this plantbased version, nutritional yeast contributes to the umami flavour in place of bonito, and also adds vital vitamin B12. Play around with flavouring variations such as wasabi or shiso, local herbs, or go zero-waste and include spent dried tea leaves!

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Sea Harvest Furikake (Raw, Vegan)

Furikake is a Japanese seaweed sprinkle that brings a mineral-rich, savoury sparkle to dishes. Iodine-rich from multiple sea vegetables, this blend can help support thyroid health. The basic ingredients are nori and sesame seeds. Nutritional yeast contributes to the umami flavour in place of bonito flakes, and also adds vital plant-based B12.

Course Condiments
Cuisine Japanese
Prep Time 20 minutes
Servings 1 cups
Author Sabrina Chu

Ingredients

  • 8 sheets nori
  • 1/2 cup dulse flakes
  • 1/4 cup nutritional yeast
  • 1/4 cup activated sesame seeds, lightly toasted
  • 3 tbsp activated sunflower seeds
  • 1 tbsp hemp seeds
  • 1 tbsp gochugaru (korean chilli flakes) (or a pinch of regular chilli powder)
  • 1/2 tsp Himalayan salt
  • 1/2 tsp coconut sugar

Instructions

  1. Process the nori sheet in a spice grinder to a coarse powder. Transfer to a small bowl.


  2. Pulse the seeds in the grinder until broken into coarse pieces. Be careful to pulse in brief spurts so you don’t turn it into fine powder. Add to the bowl, together with all the remaining
    ingredients, and mix well.

  3. Transfer to an airtight container and store at room temperature for up to one month.

  4. Add as a garnish to dishes where you want a savoury, umami taste, for example, salads, congee.

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Tofu Zuke: Cured Tofu Two Ways

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I decided to resurrect an experiment I first tried back in 2015, which is tofu zuke or cured tofu. Last time I tried using miso only (misozuke). The outcome after 8 weeks was mindblowing – it developed a cheese-like taste and softness, not unlike cream cheese, with a buzzing linger like kombucha (see photo below). This time I wanted to compare the curing effect of shio koji with miso.

Tofu zuke with shio koji (left) and miso (right)

Starting with a block of firm tofu, I first pressed and drained the excess moisture. Then I marinated half the block of tofu directly with shio koji, and the other half with the Japanese triumvirate of miso, sake and coconut sugar over a muslin cloth.

Tofu zuke after 6 days: shio koji (left two); miso (right three)

This time I unveiled the tofu after 6 days compared to 8 weeks previously. To my utter dismay, the tofu did not take on the cream cheese texture I was expecting; it was still firm and tasted strongly of soy. Perhaps the timing of revelation was premature. Nevertheless the experiment was not futile. It revealed subtle differences between curing with shio koji and miso. Shio koji-zuke was plain and subtle whereas misozuke was stained darker in colour, bolder in flavour and sweeter too because of the sake and sugar. I still need to find the sweet spot for the timing required for curing.

Tofu zuke after 8 weeks (done in 2015)

Do give tofu zuke a try if you are looking for a vegan, nut-free cheese. It adds a funky depth to salads and can be used in place of soft cheeses in dishes, such as a caprese salad. Be sure to used unpasteurised miso as you want to have the living enzymes to break down the tofu proteins. Shio koji is less widely available; I managed to find this at my local Japanese store.

Serving suggestion: Caprese salad

Tofu Zuke: Cured Tofu Two Ways
Give tofu zuke a try if you are looking for a vegan, nut-free cheese. You can use shio koji or miso as the curing agent. The product can be used in place of soft cheeses in dishes, such as a caprese salad. It also adds a funky depth of flavour.
Tofu Shio Koji Zuke
  1. 1/2 of 300 g (10 oz) block tofu
  2. 1-2 tbsp shio koji
Tofu Miso Zuke
  1. 1/2 of 300 g (10 oz) block tofu
  2. 45 g (3 tbsp) unpasteurised shiro miso (I use Eden Foods)
  3. 1 tsp sake
  4. 1 tsp coconut sugar
  5. Muslin cloth, for wrapping
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Instructions
  1. Drain the tofu and press down with a weight for at least 4 hours to remove excess moisture.
Tofu Shio Koji Zuke
  1. Spread shio koji liberally on all sides of the pressed tofu. Wrap the tofu in cling firm. Place in a container and store in the refrigerator for 1 week or longer.
Tofu Miso Zuke
  1. Wrap pressed tofu with muslin cloth. In a bowl, mix together the miso, sake and sugar. Spread the paste liberally on all sides of the muslin-wrapped tofu. Wrap the tofu in cling firm. Place in a container and store in the refrigerator for 1 week or longer.
Notes
  1. The longer you cure the tofu, the softer and 'cheesier' it becomes. I am still finding the right amount of time for curing. Currently based on my trials, 6 days is too short and 8 weeks too long (too strong flavour).
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The Fun-Guys of Japanese Fermentation

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What does sake, amazake, mirin, miso, vinegar, and shoyu have in common? These staples of the Japanese pantry rely on one vital, microscopic organism: koji-kin, otherwise known as Aspergillus Oryzae. I have touched briefly on koji in my Amazing Amazake post. I decided to create a flowchart (with Canva) to illustrate more clearly how various products are obtained with koji.

Types of Koji

There are three main types of koji-kin: yellow, black and white. White koji-kin is most stable and easy to maintain in all seasons for all types of applications. Yellow koji-kin is favoured by professional sake brewers, but becomes unstable in warmer weathers. Black koji-kin is used by some shochu makers and least common. 

Actions of Koji

Koji secretes the enzymes amylase, peptidase (protease) and small amounts of lipase, which break down starches, proteins and fats respectively. Koji will produce more amylases at higher temperatures, and more proteases at lower temperature. So adjust the temperature of your setup accordingly to what you are making. While rice is the most common host for A. Oryzae, almost any grain can be fermented to make koji – millet, oat, buckwheat, wheat and soybeans. 

Sake

Sake is rice wine. The method of fermentation is different from grape wine or beer because of the double action process for sake – simultaneous conversion of starch to sugar by koji and conversion of sugar to alcohol by sake yeast. The alcoholic fermentation for grape wine and beer occurs only with the action of yeast. Because of the double action, the alcohol content of sake can be higher than that of grape wine and beer, typically 15%, 11% and 5% respectively. Sake kasu is another byproduct of sake filtration and adds a lovely sweet complex taste to miso soup and desserts.

Shochu

When sake is distilled, it becomes shochu. Thus, it has a higher alcohol percentage of 25%, and belongs to the same category of whiskey, scotch, and vodka. While in the olden days shochu was simply distilled rice-based sake, today’s shochu most likely contain fermented barley and sweet potatoes that are left over after a big harvest. Japanese shochu should not be confused with Korean soju.

Amazake

Amazake is non-alcoholic sweet sake. There is not alcohol because no yeast is added. You can learn more about amazake and get a recipe for homemade amazake at my Amazing Amazake post.

Mirin

Mirin is sweet sake, usually used for cooking. To make mirin, a dose of alcohol, traditionally a rice spirit like shochu, is added to stop the reaction before all the sugar is converted to alcohol. What is left is a sweet, mildly alcoholic liquid. Hon (true) mirin has an alcohol percentage of 14%.

Miso

Miso is a fermented paste made from a mash of cooked soybeans, koji and salt. Koji releases plenty of amino acids which account for the umami taste of miso. Miso can be aged for minimum of 3 months to years. While soybeans is the most common material for miso, grains or a mix of soy and grains such as barley can also be used with distinct flavour profiles.

Tamari

Tamari is not to be confused with soy sauce or shoyu; it is a byproduct of miso fermentation. As miso ferments, umami-rich juices would rise to the top of the fermenter and form a puddle. Tamari is typically less salty and more viscous than soy sauce, and is gluten-free if no wheat or gluten-grain is used in the miso-making process.

Shoyu

Soy sauce is a close relative of miso but the ingredients and production procedure has fundamental differences. In making miso, koji-inoculated rice is combined with cooked soybeans; in shoyu, koji-kin is grown directly on a blend of boiled soybeans and toasted, cracked wheat.

Shio Koji Cure

Shio koji means salted koji, which is koji mixed with salt water and re-fermented. It is popular in Japanese cuisine, where it is used as a cure for protein-based ingredients including tofu. As a cure, it simultaneously seasons and tenderises, as the protease produced by koji breaks down proteins.  

I hope in this post you have learnt about the mighty power of koji. Stay tuned for my upcoming results on shio koji-cured tofu and miso-cured tofu!

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Amazing Amazake

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What is amazake?

Amazake (pronounced ah-muh-zah-kay) is Japanese for “sweet sake.” It is a creamy, non-alcoholic, fermented drink with an ambrosial, nectar-like natural sweetness.. The sweetness is brought about by enzymes in kome-koji (cultured rice inoculated with Aspergillus mold) which break down starch in cooked sweet rice into simple sugars. Commercial amazake in stores is likely pasteurised, which kills desirable probiotics. Homemade amazake is best and easy to make! While amazake is the first stage in the Japanese sake-making process, it is also regarded as an independent beverage.

Two-stages of fermentation in Amazake

In the first stage, steamed rice is inoculated with spores of Aspergillus oryzae mold, and incubated (typically in shallow wooden trays called morobuta) in a warm place (27-30°C or 78-86°F) with occasional stirring for 36-48 hours until the rice is covered in a fragrant white mycelium. The product, called kome-koji, serves as a rich source of enzymes in stage 2 – amazake fermentation. In Japan, it is sold in sake breweries or supermarkets and available in fresh or dried form. It is used as a starter for amazake, miso, soy sauce, mirin and vegetable pickles.

In the second stage, abundant enzymes in kome-koji, especially amylase, hydrolyse the starch in both koji and freshly cooked rice to simple sugars, which impart the surprisingly concentrated natural sweetness. When making amazake, you can determine how sweet the product will be by the amount of koji you use – the more koji, the sweeter the amazake.

How to make Amazake

The basic recipes calls for one part uncooked sweet rice (white or brown), two parts water, and one to one-half parts koji by weight, depending on the desired sweetness. For example, 200 g (1 cup) of rice is steamed until done, cooled to 60°C (140°F) or moderately hot to the touch, then mixed with 200 g (2 cups) of kome-koji. The mixture is transferred to a wide-mouth jar or crock, covered tightly and incubated at 60°C (140°F) for 10-14 hours with occasional stirring. An immersion circulator or thermos flask can be used to maintain the temperature. At 60°C (140°F), bacteria and mold will die, but enzymes in koji are active to convert starch to sugar. The fermentation is complete when the mixture has a rich, sweet fragrance and the individual grains are very soft.

Cheat Amazake from Sake Lees

Another way of making amazake is from residual sake lees. This does not require fermentation and contains added sugar. It is also known as amazake, which can be confusing. While sake lees still contain some active enzymes, the quantity, quality and benefits of the resulting drink is less than fermented amazake. The directions for this method are in the recipe card below.

How to enjoy Amazake

The traditional Japanese way of serving amazake is to combine 1 part of this base with 2 parts water in a saucepan and bring to the boil. Season lightly with rock salt, pour into cups, and top each portion with a dab of grated ginger root. I like to flavour my amazake with matcha, or use other types of tea/herbal tea as the base such as hojicha, mugicha, chai or coffee.

Health Benefits of Amazake

Amazake is packed with other nutrients, including vitamin B1, vitamin B2, vitamin B6, folic acid, ferulic acid, dietary fibre, glutamine, and a large amount of glucose.

Amazake
How to make amazake with traditional and cheat method. How to make amazake drink.
Traditional Amazake from kome-koji
  1. 200 g (1 cup) sweet brown or white rice (you can experiment with other grains such as millet)
  2. 480 g (2 cups) filtered water
  3. 200 g (1 packet) kome-koji
Cheat Amazake from sake lees
  1. 200 g (1 cup) sweet brown or white rice (you can experiment with other grains such as millet)
  2. 720 g (3 cups) filtered water
  3. 454 g (1 lb) sake lees
  4. 200 g (1 cup) black sugar
  5. 720 g (3 cups) filtered water
Basic Amazake Drink
  1. 120 g (1/2 cup) amazake
  2. 240 g (1 cup) filtered water or beverage of choice (tea, herbal tea, coffee etc.)
  3. Grated ginger, to taste (optional)
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Traditional Amazake from kome-koji
  1. Cook rice with water in a saucepan or rice cooker. Allow the cooked rice to cool to 60°C (140°F) or moderately hot to the touch. Mix in kome-koji. Transfer the mixture to a wide-mouth jar, cover tightly and incubated at 60°C (140°F) for 10-14 hours with occasional stirring. An immersion circulator or thermos flask can be used to maintain the temperature. The fermentation is complete when the mixture has a rich, sweet fragrance and the individual grains are very soft.
Cheat Amazake from sake lees
  1. Cook rice in water until porridge (okayu) consistency. Allow the cooked rice to cool to 60°C (140°F) or moderately hot to the touch. Mix in sake lees. Wrap the pot with towels to maintain the temperature at 60°C (140°F) an incubate in a warm place for 2-3 hours. When the mixture becomes soft, add sugar and the remainder water, then bring to a simmer until sugar dissolves.
Basic Amazake Drink
  1. Mix amazake with water or beverage of your choice. Enjoy hot or cold. Refrigerate leftovers in an airtight container.
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Dance of the Sugar Pumpkin Fairy

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Dance of the Sugar Pumpkin Fairy is the birth child of polymorphous christmastide precepts. Pumpkin pie meets panna cotta, powered by a potent punch of ginger that positively mirrors the phenomenal crescendo of Tchaikovsky’s Dance of the Sugar Plum Fairy – primitively as a playful prickle on the tongue, which then puffs up into profound perilous pungency that only ginger-lovers will take pleasure in and proclaim ‘Hallelujah!’  A precise prudent pinch of agar and kudzu powder stabilises the sweetened pumpkin-coconut milk pudding, The product is a panna cotta with the perfect precarious balance of wobble vs custard. A peculiar phenomenon! 

Without further ado on periphrastic alliterative chatter, I hereby present to you pumpkin panna cotta with apple cider reduction, otherwise christened Dance of the Sugar Pumpkin Fairy. This parsimonious holiday dessert is nut-free, oil-free, refined sugar-free, gluten-free and performs well at home parties to outdoor picnics, since it is stable at room temperature and does not require refrigeration. 

Have a pleasant and peaceful Christmas peppered with profuse pixie dust. May you have visions of sugar pumpkins dancing in your head!

Dance of the Sugar Pumpkin Fairy
Pumpkin pie meets panna cotta in this holiday dessert powered by a potent punch of ginger. This recipe is nut-free, oil-free, refined sugar-free and gluten-free.
Pumpkin Panna Cotta
  1. 500 g steamed pumpkin
  2. 160 g (2/3 cup) full-fat coconut milk (see Notes 1)
  3. 96 g (1/4 cup + 2 tbsp) coconut nectar
  4. 80 g (1/3 cup) ginger juice, freshly squeezed
  5. 1/4 tsp Himalayan salt
  6. 30 g (3 tbsp) kudzu powder, dissolved in equal quantity of filtered water to create a slurry (see Notes 2)
  7. 3.5 g (1/2 tbsp) agar powder
  8. Coconut oil, for greasing
Apple Cider Reduction
  1. 300 g (1 1/4 cup) apple cider or freshly-pressed apple juice
  2. 1 stick Ceylon cinnamon
  3. 1 tsp coconut sugar (optional)
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Pumpkin Panna Cotta
  1. Lightly grease individual ramekins with coconut oil.
  2. In a blender, combine all the ingredients. Blend on high speed until smooth and creamy. Transfer the mixture out into a saucepan and simmer for 3-4 minutes until the agar and kudzu powder is activated, stirring continuously throughout the process. Alternatively if your blender has a temperature setting, blend at 95-100°C for 5 minutes.
  3. Immediately pour the mixture into prepared ramekins. Place in the refrigerator for at least 4 hours to set. It can be stored up to 4 days in the refrigerator.
Apple Cider Reduction
  1. Place apple cider, cinnamon stick in a 1 quart sauce pan and place on low to medium heat for 30 minutes until reduced by a third. Discard the cinnamon stick.
Assembly
  1. Gently tap ramekins to unmold the panna cotta just before serving. To serve, place panna cotta on a plate and drizzle with apple cider reduction.
Notes
  1. To make full-fat coconut milk. blend 1 part (90 g / 1 cup) desiccated coconut with 1 part (240 g / 1 cup) filtered water and squeeze through a nut-milk bag.
  2. I am using Clearspring UK kudzu powder. You may substitute double the amount of arrowroot powder (60 g) for kudzu powder.
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Apple of my Macrobiotic Pie

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At this time of the year, apples are at their peak. This light and easy dessert takes a leaf from the book of macrobiotic cuisine and showcases a clean, pure and smooth essence of apples – a naturally sticky base of millet cooked in apple juice, a tart apple juice gel set with kudzu and kanten (also known as agar), a gingerbread spiced apple crumble accompanied with coconut aquafaba whip and black tahini. It is nut-free, oil-free, flour-free, no-bake and can be nut-free if you omit the crumble or use seeds in place of walnuts.

Although I am familiar with kanten / agar, it is my first time using kudzu. Agar alone produces a brittle gel, but when used in lower percentages (1-1.2%) and in combination with kudzu such as in this recipe, the result is smoother, tamer and has a more desirable texture as a multi-hydrocolloid gel. Below is a primer of kudzu root starch for those uninitiated. 

What is kudzu root starch? 

Kudzu (also known as kuzu; Pueraria lobata) is a fast-growing climbing vine of the pea family originating from China. The starchy roots are used to produce kudzu powder (kuzuko) that has been used in Asian countries since ancient times (at least 200 BC) as a food thickener and natural medicine to treat colds, headaches, diarrhea and strengthen the stomach. Kudzu is a popular ingredient in macrobiotic cuisine founded by George Ohsawa, and is believed to have yang qualities which can be used to counterbalance yin ingredients such as fruits and vegetables. Kudzu root is high in flavanoids, which is in part responsible for its medicinal properties including relieving smooth muscle contractions and cramping.

Applications and directions to use kudzu powder

Kudzu powder can be used as a thickening agent in a wide range of dishes from sauces, soups, puddings and jellies. The table below summarises the amount of kudzu powder required to produce different thickening or gelling consistencies (reproduced from The Book of Kudzu: A Culinary and Healing Guide).

Amount of Kudzu Powder for Different Food Preparations
Preparation Type Liquid Kudzu Powder
Clear soups 1 cup 1/2 teaspoon
Beverages 1 cup 1 teaspoon
Thin sauces 1 cup 2 teaspoons
Thick sauces 1 cup 1-2 tablespoons
Gels and glazes 1 cup 2 tablespoons
Tofu gels 1 cup 2 1/2 tablespoons
Kudzu Noodles 1 cup 4 tablespoons
Kudzu Mochi 1 cup 5 tablespoons

 

When you buy kudzu powder, it will be in small white chunks. Place the chunks on a piece of parchment paper, crush with the back of a spoon and sift the powder through a fine-mesh strainer before using. Dissolve the required amount of kudzu powder in a little cold filtered water, then add it to the other ingredients near the end of cooking time. Gently bring the mixture to a simmer and stir continuously for 1 to 2 minutes while the kudzu thickens and becomes translucent then transparent. In most situations, stir the mixture for another 1 minute before removing from heat. However, for firm gelled preparations, continue to stir the mixture for up to 10-15 minutes over low heat to develop a smooth, resilient texture. If using moulds to set, oil your moulds prior to pouring in the kudzu mixture to prevent sticking and for easy removal.

Acidic liquids such as lemon juice can inhibit gelling; use 10-15 percent more kudzu powder if your dish contains acidic liquids.

How does kudzu powder compare with other starch thickeners?

Kudzu is different from other thickening starches such as arrowroot, cornstarch and potato starch in the flavour and texture it imparts to food and its method of production.

Arrowroot and kudzu are fairly similar and are the healthier choices as starch thickeners. Both are made by a simple, natural process and once cooked, both have a clean subtle taste and produce clear and glossy results. The advantage of arrowroot is that it is not weakened by acid, is freeze-thaw stable and is much less expensive than kudzu despite its weaker gelling strength. The advantage of kudzu is that it is twice as strong as arrowroot in gelling, possesses alkalising and healing properties (more yang than arrowroot) and does not break down if overcooked or allowed to stand too long before serving. Kudzu gel remains stable for 2-3 days. Kudzu also provides the greatest translucency, smoothness and sparkle.

Cornstarch and potato starch are more highly refined and best avoided. The only advantage of cornstarch is that it has the unique ability to stand up to prolonged high heat and thus useful in dishes such as a baked pie.

The table below summarises how to substitute kudzu for various starches in recipes (reproduced from The Book of Kudzu: A Culinary and Healing Guide).

Kudzu Powder Substitutes
Kudzu Powder Starch
1 teaspoon kudzu powder 3 teaspoons flour
1 teaspoon kudzu powder 2 teaspoons arrowroot starch
1 teaspoon kudzu powder 2/3 teaspoon cornstarch

 

Apple of My Macrobiotic Pie
This light and easy dessert takes a leaf from the book of macrobiotic cuisine and showcases a clean, pure and smooth essence of apples - a naturally sticky base of millet cooked in apple juice, a tart apple juice gel set with kudzu and kanten (agar) and a gingerbread spiced apple crumble. Nut-free, oil-free, flour-free, no-bake and can be made nut-free.
Millet Crust
  1. 70 g (1/2 cup) millet
  2. 300 g (1 1/2 cups) apple juice
  3. Pinch Himalayan salt
  4. 16 g (1 tbsp) tahini
Apple Kudzu Kanten
  1. 480 g (2 cups) apple juice
  2. 40 g (1/6 cup) lemon juice
  3. 7 g (1 tbsp) agar powder
  4. 20 g (2 tbsp) kudzu powder, finely crushed
  5. 90 g (6 tbsp) coconut nectar
Gingerbread Spiced Apple Crumble
  1. 70 g (1/2 cup) activated almonds
  2. 50 g (1/2 cup) activated walnuts
  3. 16 g (1 tbsp) maple syrup
  4. 16 g (1 1/2 no) pitted dates
  5. 12 g (1 1/2 tbsp) coconut sugar
  6. 12 g (2 tbsp) oat flour
  7. 1 1/2 tsp gingerbread spice (DIY recipe below)
  8. 1 tsp coconut oil
  9. 1/2 tsp mesquite powder
  10. 1/4 tsp vanilla extract
  11. 1/4 tsp lemon juice
  12. 1 1/2 apples, peeled and small diced
Gingerbread Spice
  1. 3 tsp ginger powder
  2. 2 tsp cinnamon powder
  3. 1 tsp allspice powder
  4. 1 tsp nutmeg powder
  5. 1 tsp cloves powder
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For the Mlllet Crust
  1. Place millet, apple juice and salt in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to simmer, cover and cook​ ​for​ ​20-30​ ​minutes​ ​or​ ​until​ ​millet​ ​is​ ​soft​ and sticky ​and​ ​there​ ​is​ ​no​ ​liquid​ ​remaining. Allow the cooked millet to cool until slightly warm, mix in the tahini, then press the ​mixture​ ​into​ ​an 8x8-inch mould. Place the mould in the refrigerator to allow the millet to set.
For the Apple Kudzu Kanten
  1. In a saucepan, add the ​apple​ ​juice​, ​lemon​ ​juice​ ​and agar powder ​and​ ​bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer​ for 1-2 minutes until​ ​all​ ​agar​ ​dissolves​. Hydrate the ​kudzu​ ​powder ​by​ ​mixing​ it ​in​ ​a​ ​little​ ​cold​ ​​water​ ​first​ ​and​ ​then​ ​adding​ ​it​ ​to​ ​the heated​ ​apple​ ​juice​ ​and ​agar​ ​mixture. Continue stirring for ​a​ ​another 1-2 ​minutes to allow the kudzu to thicken. Remove saucepan from heat and stir in the​ coconut nectar. Allow the mixture to cool to hand-hot temperature (about 60°C), then pour​ ​the mixture​ ​over​ ​the​ ​millet​ ​base​. ​Return the mould ​to​ ​the​ ​refrigerator​ ​and allow to set for at least 2 hours or overnight for best results.
For the Gingerbread Spiced Apple Crumble
  1. In a food processor, pulse the almonds and walnuts separately into coarse crumbs. Return the crushed nuts and remaining ingredients except the apples into the food processor and pulse a few times until well-combined. Transfer the mixture into a large mixing bowl and fold in the chopped apples. Spread out the mixture onto dehydrator sheets and dehydrate at 47°C for 1 hour, or until apples are soft and have absorbed the spices.
Assembly
  1. Carefully​ ​unmould the cake and cut into serving sizes. ​Garnish with apple crumble and serve with ​coconut whip or tahini ​(optional).
Notes
  1. Recipe makes one 8x8-inch cake.
  2. To make it nut-free, replace almonds and walnuts with equal amount of your choice of seeds or desiccated coconut.
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